Stitch dictionary

Chain stitch

Also known as Tambour stitch

A line of linked loops, each held down by the next. It makes a bold, textured line that follows curves well, and close rows of it can fill a shape.

A gently curving line of chain stitch in blue thread on linen: linked loops like a chain.

Quick facts

Type
Line stitch
Best for
Bold outlines, Curves, Filling in rows
Difficulty
Easy with practice (2 of 3)
Strands
2–3; 6 for a heavy line (of six-strand floss)
Needle
Embroidery (crewel) needle, size 7–8
Stitch length
About 3 mm (1/8 in) per loop; shorter on tight curves
On curves
Very good, with slightly shorter loops on tight curves
Related
Backstitch, Split stitch, Couching

Step by step

Shown right-handed, worked from left to right with the stab method in a hoop: down and up in separate movements, the loop held while the needle comes up inside it.

  1. Make a loop

    Step 1: the first loop, from the hole used for both 1 and 2 (marked 1·2) to 3, where the needle has come up inside the loop and the thread holds it.

    Bring the needle up at 1, at the start of the line, and take it back down at 2, in the same hole, leaving a loop on the front. Come up at 3, a stitch length of about 3 mm (1/8 in) along the line, inside the loop, and pull the loop snug against the thread.

  2. Next link

    Step 2: a second loop runs from the hole used for 3 and 4 (marked 3·4) to 5, linked to the first; the thread at 5 holds it.

    Take the needle down at 4, in the same hole as 3, leaving a new loop. Come up at 5, a stitch length along, inside the new loop, and pull it snug. Each loop is held by the next.

  3. Keep going

    Step 3: a third link from the hole used for 5 and 6 (marked 5·6) to 7. The earlier links are shown paler.

    Repeat: down in the hole you came up in (6, with 5), up a stitch length along inside the new loop (7). Keep the loops the same size, snug but not tight.

  4. Finish

    Step 4: the finished chain of four links, the last held by a small straight stitch.

    At the end, take the needle down just beyond the last loop, over its end, to make a small holding stitch, and secure the thread on the back.

Shown left-handed, worked from right to left with the stab method in a hoop. The pictures are the right-handed ones turned half a turn, so the stitch is exactly the same.

Tips

  • Snug, not tight: tight loops go thin and stiff, loose ones go limp.
  • Let the needle dangle now and then so the thread untwists; twisted thread makes uneven loops.
  • On curves, make the loops a little shorter so they follow the line.
  • To close a ring of chain stitch invisibly, slide the needle under the first loop instead of making a holding stitch, then go down where you came up.
  • For a sharp point, make a holding stitch at the point and start again from inside the last loop.
  • With the sewing method (fabric in your hand), scoop from the hole you came up in to the next point, with the thread under the needle tip. Sources differ on whether the needle goes down in exactly the same hole or just beside it; we recommend the same hole for the neatest chain.

Common mistakes

Loops pulled too tight

A line of chain stitch with thin, pinched links.

Looks like: The links are thin and pinched, and the line looks stiff.

Why it happens: Each loop was pulled tight before the next one caught it.

Fix: Pull each loop just snug against the thread, so it stays round.

Uneven loops

Looks like: Some links are long and fat, others short and thin.

Why it happens: Uneven stitch lengths, or the thread twisting as you work.

Fix: Keep each stitch the same length, and let the needle dangle to untwist the thread.

The back of the work

The back of the same curved line of chain stitch, seen with the hoop turned over: short stitches meeting end to end, like backstitch.

The back of chain stitch is a line of backstitches, one stitch length each: each loop goes down in the hole it came up in, then travels forward underneath to come up inside it.

Variations

  • Detached chain (lazy daisy): A single loop held by a small stitch at its end: five or six round a centre make a daisy.
  • Whipped chain: A second thread wrapped through the loops makes a raised, corded line.
  • Chain stitch filling: Rows of chain stitch worked close together, following the shape, fill it with texture.

Compare

Use chain stitch for a bold, textured line that looks hand-drawn; use backstitch for a fine, crisp one. Backstitch

In a Hoopsake pattern

Hoopsake turns your photo into a hand-embroidery pattern with a real stitch plan: it chooses a stitch such as chain stitch for every line, matches each colour to a DMC thread and gives you a guide to print. Make a pattern from a photo

Names and history

Chain stitch is also called tambour stitch, though tambour work is strictly done with a hook through fabric stretched on a frame. A single loop held by one small stitch is detached chain, better known as lazy daisy.

Questions

Why are my chain stitch loops uneven?

Usually the stitch lengths vary, or the thread has twisted. Keep the stitches even and let the needle dangle now and then so the thread untwists.

How do I end a line of chain stitch?

Take the needle down just past the last loop, over its end, to make a small holding stitch, then secure the thread on the back.

What is the difference between chain stitch and lazy daisy?

Lazy daisy (detached chain) is a single chain loop held by its own small stitch; chain stitch links the loops into a line.

How many strands for chain stitch?

Two or three strands make a neat line; six make a heavy, rope-like one.